I've been playing around in my basement trying to see if I can come up with a really simple NASCAR for those of you who would like to enter the Daytona West Proxy Race but don't know how to get started building. Here's a car that you can build from an inexpensive mass-produced chassis with only three cuts.
I had a couple of Riggen #5003 brass inline home racing chassis lying around. They appeared to be likely candidates so I started measuring and discovered that I only needed to add 7/16" to the wheelbase and cut 1/8" off each side to make this chassis fit a Toybiz Monte Carlo body.
I made the cut to lengthen the wheelbase at the forward end of the cutouts for the "pan" sections of the chassis. I set the chassis up for the required wheelbase in my chassis jig and soldered in two pieces of .062" piano wire, each bent into the shape of a wide, shallow "V" to reconnect the two halves of the chassis. An L-brace fixes the rear of each pan to the back half of the chassis.
I braced the motor mount to the rear axle uprights with a u-shaped piano wire brace and added a set of my snap-on body mounts. For detailed instructions on making these mounts, see "Vintage Euroscale Plus" elsewhere in this section of OWH.
The Cheetah motor bolts right into the motor mount. I replaced the lead wires with heavier-duty ones with clips. The gears are 48 pitch, a 7-tooth pinion and a 27-tooth crown. The crown gear shown in the pictures is a Cox, but has since been replaced by a PSE King Crown. I put some axle spacers between the back of the crown gear and the right rear axle bushing to keep the crown from backing away from the pinion.
The wheels and tires are JK's. They are made for 1/24 scale stock cars but are actually just about the right diameter to be scale on a 1/32 scale NASCAR. I narrowed the fronts about 3/32" and the rears about 1/4". The fronts are .750" in diameter and made for 3/32" axles. The tire diameter is smaller than the chassis' front axle holes are drilled for, so I notched the axle holes and installed a 1/8" o.d. axle tube, spaced to the correct height for the .750" front tires.
The Toybiz body is rather top-heavy, so I had to add 1 1/2 ounces of lead at the front of the chassis to balance the car out. The car still tends to be a bit of a tilter when pushed beyond the limit, but the track surface was considerably stickier for testing than it will be for the race, so I think the handling would work out fine for anyone who wants to try this design for their proxy race entry. One of the lighter bodies, especially a Revell-Monogram snap kit, would probably work with the chassis even better.
As of this writing I still haven't painted the car and reinstalled the windows. When that's done the finished car should be attractive as well as reasonably fast and, most of all, easy to build.
This same chassis can be made, with a little more cutting, from a Parma Womp or a Champion Thumper. Both of those chassis have the advantage of having both the front and rear axle holes at the correct height for .750" diameter tires, the legal minimum size for the race.
So come on, all you beginning chassis builders, give it a try. You'll gain valuable experience and who knows, you might just come out a winner!